Coffee Stories: Me & My (Fierce, Unique, Vintage & Climate Friendly) Wardrobe
For this piece I sat down with one of my favourite humans in this world - Anastasia Marshall (writer, director & founder of Rebel Muse) - to chat all things fashion and climate change!
So if you’ve been contemplating how to start investing your money more consciously when it comes to your wardrobe, and want to ensure not only longevity in terms of your purchases but protect mother nature as well as fair working conditions at the same time… Well this is for you! Enjoy!*
*(and to be clear, no one is suggesting shopping more consciously is going to fix the problem, nor is this the most efficient or straightforward or even accessible solution. BUT it is a step towards something other than fast fashion, and it offers true STYLE as opposed to seasonal whims if you are ready to consider that, both personally and financially).
As a little backstory, you have always been incredibly savvy with your fashion. From making or tailoring your own pieces to trawling charity shops for incredible finds, you certainly always had the eye and determination. However, in recent years you’ve taken this to the next level in an effort to minimise any ‘new’ shopping.
When did that shift happen, what motivated it and how do you feel about it now?
Working in the media meant I spent a long time in Soho and around Oxford Street. It was second nature to go out and buy something new for my wardrobe to pass the time, to treat myself, just because I could. The first time I really fell out of love with fashion was, ironically, while working at British Vogue. The pressure to be trendy and always have new outfits was so high and my experience in that world far from positive. What stayed was an interest in designer Vivienne Westwood. I started to learn about environmentalism and her motto, "Buy less, choose well." It got me thinking about how clothes can be sold so cheaply - surely, I realised, someone or something was being exploited? I think most people now know this, even if they don't quite grasp the extent of it. To keep up the highly lucrative Fast Fashion production model, highstreet and online retailers are churning out poor quality clothing, at the expense of people and the planet. The more I learnt, the more the gloss and appeal of the highstreet just fell away. I'd walk down Oxford Street and just imagine all the chemicals that had been pumped into the water system to make the clothes. I'd think about the women making "Feminist" slogan t-shirts for a few pennies a day. I'd think about most of the results of that exploitation ending up in a landfill. And then I thought about the greedy businessmen (because the richest are men) at the top of the big fashion chains, making huge profits. And I just decided I didn't want to give them my money anymore. That was about two and a half years ago. Since then I've bought almost exclusively secondhand and vintage fashion, and live by a "slow" fashion mentality, making sure the clothes I buy and have can really last. Some things (underwear, for example) I still buy new, so I make sure it's from an ethical brand.
What is your first memory of vintage shopping; whether a piece you found, a place, a feeling?
My first vintage purchase was a 60s white and blue cotton blouse, with an oriental fan pattern. I still have it, eight years later, and it's barely even frayed! I bought it from the only vintage shop that existed in Bournemouth at the time and I remember it was quite overwhelming - there was just SO much to look at. It was a kind of fashion FOMO and I just wanted to look at, touch and try on everything. From then on, I was hooked and started going to vintage fairs and hunting through charity shops to find gems for myself.
What do you think are some of the biggest misconceptions around not shopping anything new, and how do we dismantle them?
That's a very tough question for me because I'm such a convert haha. I think a lack of time is probably a big obstacle. The highstreet and online make it so easy to find things - they actively tell you what is stylish and then voilà, it's all laid out for your convenience. Vintage and secondhand shopping requires a bit more digging and you have to know what suits you, suits your body. If getting to vintage or charity shops is a real blocker, there's eBay, Vinted, Depop. Or you can at least minimise your negative impact by buying higher quality from an ethical brand. Yes, this will probably come with a higher price tag. But that is the inevitable effect of people being paid fairly and environmental protections being put in place! Also, the item will likely last a lot longer, so you will save time in the long run too. The good news is that the whole point of "slow" fashion is, ultimately, to buy less and enjoy what you have. Otherwise, make a day's activity of it! Get some friends together, find an area that's full of vintage and charity shops, and allow yourselves the afternoon to properly treasure hunt.
What would your one piece of advice be to someone looking to take on the challenge of not shopping new for the year (but still wanting to keep investing in a more personal and lasting wardrobe)?
Unfollow high street and online retailers' social media accounts and stop going into the physical stores, stop looking at their websites. Just don't allow yourself the temptation! Recognise that the Fast Fashion industry uses a sense of urgency to make us buy, buy, buy, when we don't actually need to. Instead, find some truly ethical brands you can support and resist that impulse to shop if you don't need something. There are lots of fashion bloggers who wear only secondhand and vintage, so switch to following them for inspiration. In terms of investing, finding a unique vintage piece that you will love forever is so much more satisfying than anything I've ever bought "new". Go to fairs and pop-ups, but remember vintage doesn't necessarily equal cheaper than the highstreet. For the bargains, you need to locate the best charity shop spots. If brand names are your thing, go to charity shops in affluent areas for much lower price tags. If you just want to find cool and original pieces for your wardrobe, then areas with an older population are great - think seaside towns, country villages. Don't worry so much about sizes because measurements were different. If you find something amazing that doesn't fit exactly right, buy it anyway and find a tailor who can alter it for you. Oh and actually, buy a small sewing kit and watch some basic YT tutorials on how to reattach a button or mend a hem, etc. Slow fashion means looking after what you already have, too.
Is there an additional allure around the clothes having a story and a past of their own, and do you find yourself continuing the cycle (by selling onwards)?
A: For me, the appeal is knowing that I've found something quite unique. Seeing someone else wearing the same piece of clothing as me is the worst! Having loved and studied fashion, I also enjoy the nerdy side of it - I get a thrill from being able to recognise what decade a vintage item was produced in. And I love how much better the quality is. The craftsmanship and details are often so much more impressive. Because of this, I will often "rescue" a vintage item from a charity shop, even if it doesn't fit or suit me. Then I have to begin the process of denial and grieving that allows me to eventually sell it on eBay or Depop. I think I will just end up with a walk-in wardrobe bigger than my bedroom to be honest.
Right… Let’s get into it. When you look at your wardrobe, what does it say about you?
My wardrobe is pretty colourful and full of patterns. I am flower obsessed! My style is a bit bohemian so I'd hope it reflects my creativity. Most of my stuff is quite practical and comfy - I live in leggings and hoodies when I'm at home - but I also have a lot of dresses, so I guess it's a wardrobe of extremes in that sense.
NOW FOR SOME FAVOURITE LOOKS…
What is your most out there ‘I cannot believe I brought that home but I love it’ piece?
This electric green 80s blazer (vintage fair £40)
What piece makes you feel like you can achieve anything?
My Austin Reed coat (charity shop £12)
It’s a rainy Tuesday morning of meh… You’ve got work… You reach for…
High-waist black jeans, vintage shirt (charity shop £5)
What is your ‘armour’ piece?
Orange leather fringe jacket (Portobello Road vintage shop £60)
What is the primary colour scheme (and what does it / or patterns / mean to you)
It is all about the floral patterns and jewel colours for me. And textures! Mixing velvet, lace, leather...
A piece that always reminds you of who you are when everything else seems a mess…
My Vivienne Westwood tits t-shirt (treasured birthday present)
Something that makes you smile.
Vintage petticoat (Beyond Retro £18) with Wonder Woman tee OR my ridiculous yellow corset top with the big sleeves (eBay £40)
Something that immediately transports you to another place / world / moment.
My floral trousers (River Island 2014) which I bought for my first day at Vogue. Paired with backless vintage top (vintage shop £30)
Something you’ve never worn but could never get rid of.
These 60s tartan flares (charity shop £4.50)
Bold accessory.
This very bling belt that I'm mentally preparing myself for (charity shop £1)
Would wear to an Oscar party.
Tuxedo trousers (charity shop £10) and velvet blazer (charity shop £8)
Would wear to a Gatsby party.
Black and blue oriental-style dress (Vinted £8)
Someone is painting a portrait of you so you wear…
My pink kimono (charity shop £5) and green playsuit (H&M 2015)
How has your style as well as shopping habits (i.e. what you look for once inside the shop) changed over the past five years and do you feel it’s a reflection on who you are today v then?
I am so much more comfortable in my own skin, wearing what I truly love, instead of what the "trends" are. Buying second-hand has helped me to find my own style. When I go into a charity shop or vintage store, I just start sifting through. I know what colours I like and I'm always drawn to unusual patterns or textures, so I can spot things quite quickly. But half the fun is looking in places that don't appear promising and uncovering a real gem.
Do you think everyone’s wardrobe tells a story about them?
To a degree. I think most wardrobes would mostly tell the history of the highstreet. If more people rejected Fast Fashion and invested into their clothes, really chose well and cherished the things they buy, then you could read a wardrobe like an autobiography.
Top three vintage shops in London?
1. Charity shops are always your first call (do good and look good!). Royal Trinity Hospices are usually very well organised and presented. The messier or older ones, often Emmaus or Salvation Army, usually have some treasures hidden away.
2. Beyond Retro are my favourite vintage stores in London.
3. eBay, Vinted and Depop for online.
4. (Outside of London) Leeds, Margate, Glasgow, Bristol and Brighton are full of vintage shops.
Lastly, what are your hopes with regards to the climate change movement going forward, both on a wider scale and when it comes to all the little things each one of us can do? And what would be something you would hope everyone else started doing differently to make a change?
Being specific to sustainable fashion, I hope people wake up to how consumerism is influencing them. The retailers have got the psychology nailed to make us keep buying, to keep wanting new, new, new. I think it's easy to fall into the trap of thinking some retailers are passable, because they have an organic line or a clothes recycling program. Those are great (tiny) steps. But they are still operating as Fast Fashion businesses and it's that model that is damaging. If a business can be ethical with 10% of their products, what's the other 90% hiding? What are they distracting us from? These businesses will only change when their bottom lines are impacted, which is why refusing them your cash is not a little thing at all, it's the most powerful thing you can do.
Then I hope people start wondering about other areas, like secondhand furniture and homeware (so much charity shop fun to be had!), switching to organic beauty or non-toxic cleaning products, and even ethical perfume, as these are all industries that have a secret trail of exploitation and harm behind and ahead of the consumer.
What is the one guilty clothing or shopping context you struggled with or can't seem to give up fully?
Well, I have had to curb my charity shop obsession as it was getting out of hand...! But otherwise, I live in Converse shoes and go through about a pair a year, which sucks because they are not a very sustainable brand (according to Good On You). You can always find Converse in vintage stores but my size is tricky and then they only really last a few months. I've not worked out what to do with this yet and my current pair are falling to pieces!
Otherwise, I am trying to give up Amazon Prime because it's such a harmful model for the planet and the company's employees - and they don't even pay their taxes properly! So I'm buying secondhand books from eBay now. I also want to actively spend my money with more black-owned business as part of being a better ally.
I'm learning that convenience usually equals harm, somewhere along the line, and that maybe I should extend my slow fashion principles to the rest of my life. People survived without these convenient digital-age wonders before, so surely I can do so again!
And if you wanted to find out more, here are some fabulous resources about Slow Fashion:
https://www.bookdepository.com/How-Break-Up-With-Fast-Fashion-Lauren-Bravo/9781472267740 - This book is amazing!
https://goodonyou.eco/ - Rates brands on how ethical they are (just because a brand is listed, doesn't mean they are ethical - always check their rating!)
https://mygreencloset.com/directory/ Ethical brand directory for fashion, beauty, home and kids wear
https://www.instagram.com/igotitfromthecharityshop/?utm_source=ig_embed - Fave new charity fashion blogger!